Last edited by Manos
Thursday, August 6, 2020 | History

3 edition of Surfing found in the catalog.

Surfing

Sam George

Surfing

by Sam George

  • 319 Want to read
  • 25 Currently reading

Published by Friedman/Fairfax Pub. in New York, N.Y .
Written in English

    Subjects:
  • Surfing.,
  • Surfing -- Pictorial works.

  • Edition Notes

    Includes index.

    StatementSam George ; photography by Aaron Chang.
    ContributionsChang, Aaron.
    Classifications
    LC ClassificationsGV840.S8 G457 1993
    The Physical Object
    Pagination128 p. :
    Number of Pages128
    ID Numbers
    Open LibraryOL911115M
    ISBN 101567990282
    LC Control Number95206334
    OCLC/WorldCa31851396


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Surfing by Sam George Download PDF EPUB FB2

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A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction. Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.

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Her language is so devoid of extras, as if she writes sentences, then crosses out all the superfluous words, leaving just the bare bones of eloquent, beautiful prose. Somehow this house, and its predecessors,makes an appearance in every book. Encyclopedia of Surfing is a nonprofit dedicated to preserving, celebrating, and occasionally goosing surf history and culture.

The site is run by former SURFER Magazine editor Matt Warshaw. Finnegan has certainly written a surfing book for surfers, but on a more fundamental level, ‘Barbarian Days’ offers a cleareyed vision of American boyhood.

Like Jon Krakauer’s ‘Into the Wild,’ it is a sympathetic examination of what happens when literary ideas of freedom and purity take hold of a young mind and fling his body out into. In other words, once it emerges from the ­adolescent-rebellion stage of its development, surfing presents itself as a problematic passion, and it is one of this book’s many great strengths that.

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